Island Peak (Imja Tse) , Himalayas - 20 days
The name Island Peak (6189m) was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric
Shipton's party, who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen
from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of
ice. In 1983 it was re-named Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive
name of Island Peak seems to have been retained. It was first climbed in 1953
by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest - they were
Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who
were trying out the newfangled oxygen sets, as practice for loftier things. Most people
are able to climb Imja Tse without bottled oxygen.
Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche, dwarfed by one of the largest mountain
faces in the world - the South Face of Lhotse. But on closer inspection it reveals itself to
be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the
Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is
separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically
beautiful ridge leading to the summit of Imja Tse (Island Peak).
From base camp, the trek to the summit of Island Peak involves some steep sections, where the
use of crampons, ice-axe and ropes are necessary. As well as providing an enjoyable climb the
peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. From the summit you get a
panoramic north view of Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. To the east, rising
above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu, beyond that the red granite mass
of Makalu; to the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse, and the beautiful Ama
Dablam, the latter like a sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island
Peak stands
Difficulty = Moderate
Climbing Island Peak has the same physiological affects as climbing any high mountain, except
it is all ice and snow. The ascent is not technical and difficulties are normally altitude
related. Being mostly snow however, Island Peak can be quite cold necessitating warm
gear, as well as the use of ice axe, crampons and jumars.
Area : Island Peak
Altitude : 6189m With Gokyo Lakes/Kala Pattar
Duration : 20 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu
Itinerary
Day 1 :
Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel on B/B basis.
Day 2 :
Day in Kathmandu for preparing permits. Hotel B/B
Day 3 :
Lukla - Phakding (3h - 2500 m)
Early morning flight from Kathmandu/Lukla. The views from the plane are
amazing, providing dramatic views of terraced hills and the distant Himalayan
giants - Langtang, Gauri Shanker, Numbur, Manglungtse, and finally Everest. In
Lukla (2700m), Sherpas await us with the equipment. The trek starts with a short
descent to the Dudh Kosi Valley. From the village of Chaunrikarka (2621 m), the
way moves northwards through the Sherpa villages where fields of corn, potatoes, and
vegetables are cultivated. We cross Dudh Koshi River on a suspension bridge and
overnight at Phakding.
Day 4
Phakding - Namche (5h - 3440 m)
We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river
many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering
Sagamatha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views to Namche
Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region. We cross the high suspension bridge before
reaching the Sherpa capital of the region. The trail to Namche is steep and long, but
eventually we reach the remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on the hillside and dominated
to the east by the immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m). There should be time to explore this
famous Sherpa village, and visit some shops selling Tibetan jewellery and other Tibetan
products. Each week on a Saturday is market day in Namche when the people from neighbouring
villages and even Tibet come to sell their wares.
Day 5
Acclimatisation day of altitude at Namche
Today is a rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. Namche is a colorful village
with many wonderful and interesting shops and vendors, fabulous food, and stunning views
of the surrounding mountains. An early hike above town, before the clouds move in, rewards
climbers with a spectacular Himalayan sunrise and views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse (the 4th highest
peak in the world), and the beautiful Ama Dablam. On the way down, we can visit the Sherpa
Museum that houses an exhibit on traditional Sherpa lifestyle and a fabulous photography
display by a local Nepalese naturalist.
Day 6
Namche/Phortse Khola (5h - 3700 m)
The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent
views of the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam and Kantega, two of the most spectacular
peaks of Nepal, until we arrive at Phorste Khola - a fairly day easy to allow for acclimatisation.
Day 7
Phortse Khola/Machermo (5h - 4200 m)
From the river the trail initially climbs steeply out of the valley through rhododendron
and conifer forests, and then continues high above the Dudh Kosi, steadily gaining height. This
part of the trek is especially beautiful in Spring. We pass through settlements where
mountain dwellers have brought their herds of yaks to graze in the verdant pastures, till
the end of December. Throughout the day we have fantastic views of the surrounding mountains,
especially Khumbila and Tawachee. The trail continues high above the west bank of the Dudh
Kosi, through Tongba (3900m), Gyele (3960) and Lhabarma (4220m) and we obtain tremendous views
of the mountains at the northern end of the valley, including Cho Oyu, as well as back down the
valley to Ama Dablam, and across the valley to Tawache and Cholatse. Machhermo at 4410m is a
pleasant camp site with several tea-houses
Day 8
Machermo/Gokyo Lakes (5h - 4700 m)
Beyond Machhermo the valley widens and the trail passes through the settlement of Pangka before
descending to the river. From here it is a steep ascent up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa
glacier to the first of the Gokyo lakes at 4650m. The trail then levels off and passes the second
lake at 4690m, eventually making its way to Gokyo at 4750m. Gokyo is a sizeable settlement with
many tea-houses, located in a delightful area on the edge of the lake, and is the main objective
for many of the trekking groups that we will encounter. The views from Gokyo are magnificent and
tomorrow we will climb the small hill above Gokyo village, known as Gokyo Ri, to obtain fantastic
views of Everest and Cho Oyu.
Day 9
Gokyo/Thangnak (Dragnag) (5h - 4700 m)
We start the day by slowly ascending to the top of Gokyo Ri at 5350m, and are rewarded
by magnificent views of Everest to the east and Cho Oyu to the north. After descending to
Gokyo and resting we retrace our steps to the area between the first and second lakes and
take a trail eastwards across the Ngozumpa Glacier. This takes us to the small settlement
of Dragnag (4700m) where there is a tea-house.
Day 10
Thangnak/Dzongla via Chola (6h - 4900 m)
We make an early start, and continue upwards towards the pass that links the Gokyo and
Everest valleys - the Cho La. From Dragnag it is about 3-4 hours of slow walking to the
pass at 5420m. Whilst this is a hard morning's walk, we are rewarded by fabulous views on
both sides of the pass. From the pass we descend slowly on a rough trail to the small
settlement of Dzongla where there are a few tea-houses. The descent, initially difficult,
may require the use of ropes. We make our camp here, and have a superb view of the
immense peak of Cholatse.
Day 11
Dzongla/Lobuche (5h - 4887m)
From Dzongla we descend further towards Duglha where we stop for lunch. Shortly after
Duglha the trail levels out and a chorten stands as a memorial to sherpaas killed on
Everest. After a stiff ascent of about two hours along the lateral moraine of the
Khumbu Glacier, we arrive at Lobuche. Lobuche is cold and austere - set amid huge moraines
and grand peaks, it is the last habitation before Everest Base Camp, although there are stone
huts at Gorak Shep.
Day 12
Lobuche/Kala Pattar (5545m)/Gorakshep (6h - 5170m)
Contouring along the valley side, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and
becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble. In the afternoon climb Kala Pattar
(the Black Rock) - takes about 1½ hours - from which you can see Everest in all her
splendour. The beautiful mountain behind Kala Pattar is Pumori. Gorak Shep is the last kharka
(summer pastures) on the Everest Highway. Probably because of its sandy ground, it gives the
impression of being deserted. Gorak Shep is the best vista point of the whole course where the
high peaks of the Khumbu Mountains, including Everest, the mighty Khumbu Glacier and the Western
Cwm can be seen.
Day 13
Gorekchep - Chhukung (7h - 4730m)
If weather conditions permit, it is possible to reach Chhukung by taking the path that veers
off to Kongma La (5535m) after passing through Lobuche, the trail leads below the Lhutse/Nuptse
Wall, the largest rock wall in the Himalaya, which towers above the village, to the north.
Day 14
Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (4h - 5200m)
To reach base camp from Chhukung the path first climbs quite steeply to the south before
following the moraine east along the main valley below the southern or true left bank of the
Lhotse Glacier. The trail then follows glacial streams to the snout of the Imja Glacier.
Day 15/16
Climb Island Peak
(1) From Base Camp it takes approximately 4 hours to reach intermediate camp. From base
camp the route skirts south-east around the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the
mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Occasional
cairns are to be found marking the path. Easy scrambling up an open gully leads between two
well-defined ridges and the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of
a small hanging glacier (5280m).
(2) From intermediate camp we scramble across the broad open gully and gain the right-hand
ridge. From here we take care as we make our way up the glacier until we reach a broad snow
basin which leads up to the final section of the climb. Ahead of us now is the main summit ridge
and we climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed ropes, for approximately 100m to access the
ridge. The ridge is a classic and leads quickly to the east up to the main summit at 6189m. From
the summit there are fantastic views across to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and
Mera Peak to the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. After taking in the views we descend by the
same route, abseiling from the ridge, and making our way back carefully to Base Camp.
Day 17
Chhukung/Thyangboche (3867m)
We retrace our steps to Dingboche (4530m). From Dingboche we head down the main Everest trail,
passing through the settlement of Pangboche the most interior of all the villages that boast
year-round habitation. Pangboche consists of two villages: an upper village with a gompa at its
centre and a lower village with residences arrayed along a terraced hillside near the Imja Khola
river. Before reaching the famous Thyangboche monastery, we cross the Imja Khola River. The
downward trail is still dominated by the towering peaks of Ama Dablam, Kantega, and Nuptse, Lhostse
and Everest in the distance. The monastery, the largest in the area, is newly built as the old one
was destroyed by fire some years ago. It is built in the traditional style, and with its gleaming
copper roofs it is as grand as ever.
Day 18
Thyangboche/Monjo (7h - 3000 m)
From Tengpoche the trail drops steeply to the river at Phunki Thanga, and then rises again to
traverse high above the river on a winding trail into Namche Bazaar. We continue down the trail
by descending steeply out of Namche before we cross the suspension bridge below Namche, and our last
view of Everest. We exit Sagarmatha National Park at the village of Jorsale and continue down the
trail to the village of Monjo, where we spend the night.
Day 19
Monjo/Lukla (5h - 2800 m)
We continue along the undulating trail from Monjo to return to Lukla. Night in Guest house.
Day 20
Lukla/Kathmandu
We spend the morning in Lukla - return flight to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 21
Free day in Kathmandu. Same hotel.
Day 22
Departure transfer
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