Island Peak (Imja Tse) , Himalayas - 20 days

The name Island Peak (6189m) was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party, who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was re-named Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained. It was first climbed in 1953 by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest - they were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were trying out the newfangled oxygen sets, as practice for loftier things. Most people are able to climb Imja Tse without bottled oxygen.

Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche, dwarfed by one of the largest mountain faces in the world - the South Face of Lhotse. But on closer inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of Imja Tse (Island Peak).

From base camp, the trek to the summit of Island Peak involves some steep sections, where the use of crampons, ice-axe and ropes are necessary. As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. From the summit you get a panoramic north view of Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu, beyond that the red granite mass of Makalu; to the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse, and the beautiful Ama Dablam, the latter like a sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands

Difficulty = Moderate

Climbing Island Peak has the same physiological affects as climbing any high mountain, except it is all ice and snow. The ascent is not technical and difficulties are normally altitude related. Being mostly snow however, Island Peak can be quite cold necessitating warm gear, as well as the use of ice axe, crampons and jumars.

Area : Island Peak
Altitude : 6189m
With Gokyo Lakes/Kala Pattar
Duration : 20 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1 :
Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel on B/B basis.

Day 2 :
Day in Kathmandu for preparing permits. Hotel B/B

Day 3 :
Lukla - Phakding (3h - 2500 m)

Early morning flight from Kathmandu/Lukla. The views from the plane are amazing, providing dramatic views of terraced hills and the distant Himalayan giants - Langtang, Gauri Shanker, Numbur, Manglungtse, and finally Everest. In Lukla (2700m), Sherpas await us with the equipment. The trek starts with a short descent to the Dudh Kosi Valley. From the village of Chaunrikarka (2621 m), the way moves northwards through the Sherpa villages where fields of corn, potatoes, and vegetables are cultivated. We cross Dudh Koshi River on a suspension bridge and overnight at Phakding.

Day 4
Phakding - Namche (5h - 3440 m)

We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamatha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views to Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region. We cross the high suspension bridge before reaching the Sherpa capital of the region. The trail to Namche is steep and long, but eventually we reach the remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on the hillside and dominated to the east by the immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m). There should be time to explore this famous Sherpa village, and visit some shops selling Tibetan jewellery and other Tibetan products. Each week on a Saturday is market day in Namche when the people from neighbouring villages and even Tibet come to sell their wares.

Day 5
Acclimatisation day of altitude at Namche

Today is a rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. Namche is a colorful village

with many wonderful and interesting shops and vendors, fabulous food, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. An early hike above town, before the clouds move in, rewards climbers with a spectacular Himalayan sunrise and views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse (the 4th highest peak in the world), and the beautiful Ama Dablam. On the way down, we can visit the Sherpa Museum that houses an exhibit on traditional Sherpa lifestyle and a fabulous photography display by a local Nepalese naturalist.

Day 6
Namche/Phortse Khola (5h - 3700 m)

The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam and Kantega, two of the most spectacular peaks of Nepal, until we arrive at Phorste Khola - a fairly day easy to allow for acclimatisation.

Day 7
Phortse Khola/Machermo (5h - 4200 m)

From the river the trail initially climbs steeply out of the valley through rhododendron and conifer forests, and then continues high above the Dudh Kosi, steadily gaining height. This part of the trek is especially beautiful in Spring. We pass through settlements where mountain dwellers have brought their herds of yaks to graze in the verdant pastures, till the end of December. Throughout the day we have fantastic views of the surrounding mountains, especially Khumbila and Tawachee. The trail continues high above the west bank of the Dudh Kosi, through Tongba (3900m), Gyele (3960) and Lhabarma (4220m) and we obtain tremendous views of the mountains at the northern end of the valley, including Cho Oyu, as well as back down the valley to Ama Dablam, and across the valley to Tawache and Cholatse. Machhermo at 4410m is a pleasant camp site with several tea-houses

Day 8
Machermo/Gokyo Lakes (5h - 4700 m)

Beyond Machhermo the valley widens and the trail passes through the settlement of Pangka before descending to the river. From here it is a steep ascent up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier to the first of the Gokyo lakes at 4650m. The trail then levels off and passes the second lake at 4690m, eventually making its way to Gokyo at 4750m. Gokyo is a sizeable settlement with many tea-houses, located in a delightful area on the edge of the lake, and is the main objective for many of the trekking groups that we will encounter. The views from Gokyo are magnificent and tomorrow we will climb the small hill above Gokyo village, known as Gokyo Ri, to obtain fantastic views of Everest and Cho Oyu.

Day 9
Gokyo/Thangnak (Dragnag) (5h - 4700 m)

We start the day by slowly ascending to the top of Gokyo Ri at 5350m, and are rewarded by magnificent views of Everest to the east and Cho Oyu to the north. After descending to Gokyo and resting we retrace our steps to the area between the first and second lakes and take a trail eastwards across the Ngozumpa Glacier. This takes us to the small settlement of Dragnag (4700m) where there is a tea-house.

Day 10
Thangnak/Dzongla via Chola (6h - 4900 m)

We make an early start, and continue upwards towards the pass that links the Gokyo and Everest valleys - the Cho La. From Dragnag it is about 3-4 hours of slow walking to the pass at 5420m. Whilst this is a hard morning's walk, we are rewarded by fabulous views on both sides of the pass. From the pass we descend slowly on a rough trail to the small settlement of Dzongla where there are a few tea-houses. The descent, initially difficult, may require the use of ropes. We make our camp here, and have a superb view of the immense peak of Cholatse.

Day 11
Dzongla/Lobuche (5h - 4887m)

From Dzongla we descend further towards Duglha where we stop for lunch. Shortly after Duglha the trail levels out and a chorten stands as a memorial to sherpaas killed on Everest. After a stiff ascent of about two hours along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, we arrive at Lobuche. Lobuche is cold and austere - set amid huge moraines and grand peaks, it is the last habitation before Everest Base Camp, although there are stone huts at Gorak Shep.

Day 12
Lobuche/Kala Pattar (5545m)/Gorakshep (6h - 5170m)

Contouring along the valley side, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and becomes quite vague, weaving between mounds of rubble. In the afternoon climb Kala Pattar (the Black Rock) - takes about 1½ hours - from which you can see Everest in all her splendour. The beautiful mountain behind Kala Pattar is Pumori. Gorak Shep is the last kharka (summer pastures) on the Everest Highway. Probably because of its sandy ground, it gives the impression of being deserted. Gorak Shep is the best vista point of the whole course where the high peaks of the Khumbu Mountains, including Everest, the mighty Khumbu Glacier and the Western Cwm can be seen.

Day 13
Gorekchep - Chhukung (7h - 4730m)

If weather conditions permit, it is possible to reach Chhukung by taking the path that veers off to Kongma La (5535m) after passing through Lobuche, the trail leads below the Lhutse/Nuptse Wall, the largest rock wall in the Himalaya, which towers above the village, to the north.

Day 14
Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (4h - 5200m)

To reach base camp from Chhukung the path first climbs quite steeply to the south before following the moraine east along the main valley below the southern or true left bank of the Lhotse Glacier. The trail then follows glacial streams to the snout of the Imja Glacier.

Day 15/16
Climb Island Peak

(1) From Base Camp it takes approximately 4 hours to reach intermediate camp. From base camp the route skirts south-east around the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Occasional cairns are to be found marking the path. Easy scrambling up an open gully leads between two well-defined ridges and the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5280m).

(2) From intermediate camp we scramble across the broad open gully and gain the right-hand ridge. From here we take care as we make our way up the glacier until we reach a broad snow basin which leads up to the final section of the climb. Ahead of us now is the main summit ridge and we climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed ropes, for approximately 100m to access the ridge. The ridge is a classic and leads quickly to the east up to the main summit at 6189m. From the summit there are fantastic views across to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and Mera Peak to the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. After taking in the views we descend by the same route, abseiling from the ridge, and making our way back carefully to Base Camp.

Day 17
Chhukung/Thyangboche (3867m)

We retrace our steps to Dingboche (4530m). From Dingboche we head down the main Everest trail, passing through the settlement of Pangboche the most interior of all the villages that boast year-round habitation. Pangboche consists of two villages: an upper village with a gompa at its centre and a lower village with residences arrayed along a terraced hillside near the Imja Khola river. Before reaching the famous Thyangboche monastery, we cross the Imja Khola River. The downward trail is still dominated by the towering peaks of Ama Dablam, Kantega, and Nuptse, Lhostse and Everest in the distance. The monastery, the largest in the area, is newly built as the old one was destroyed by fire some years ago. It is built in the traditional style, and with its gleaming copper roofs it is as grand as ever.

Day 18
Thyangboche/Monjo (7h - 3000 m)

From Tengpoche the trail drops steeply to the river at Phunki Thanga, and then rises again to traverse high above the river on a winding trail into Namche Bazaar. We continue down the trail by descending steeply out of Namche before we cross the suspension bridge below Namche, and our last view of Everest. We exit Sagarmatha National Park at the village of Jorsale and continue down the trail to the village of Monjo, where we spend the night.

Day 19
Monjo/Lukla (5h - 2800 m)

We continue along the undulating trail from Monjo to return to Lukla. Night in Guest house.

Day 20
Lukla/Kathmandu

We spend the morning in Lukla - return flight to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.

Day 21
Free day in Kathmandu. Same hotel.

Day 22
Departure transfer